REVIEW: Ate O’Clock 

A restaurant every York resident should be on first-name basis with by now

An evening at Ate O’Clock is the perfect cure for any of the depressingly-dim and overcast wintery nights to come. It starts from the moment you walk through the brightly-lit outer doorway and are immediately transported away from the cold and rain down an enchanting alleyway, adorned with fairy lights and quintessentially York lanterns (that wouldn’t be out of place indicating the start-point of one of our city’s many ghost tours). While our impression of Ate O’Clock may have been shaped by a particularly cold Tuesday evening — whatever the weather, the food and service make this restaurant an absolute must this winter. 

The staff are warm and welcoming. The interior decorations are bright and bold. The music is relaxing but not intrusive. It’s all set-up to make the restaurant floor a hot-bed for comfort and conversation. This was reflected by the resident restaurant-goers around me, while to my left there was a young couple on a date, to my right there were family meals-out and reunions between old friends. Despite their different ages and circumstances, this cocktail of diners were all brought there by a shared love for the delicious menu. 

We wasted no time and got stuck straight into the main course. I opted for the pan-roasted sea bass. It exceeded all the expectations I had — the fish was light but flavourful, such that after slicing through the crispy skin, it simply falls apart under your knife and melts immediately in your mouth. The chefs’ decision to pair the sea bass with a spicy chilli and garlic risotto was another bold but justified choice, adding a necessary punch of flavour next to the delicacy of the sea bass.

We then finished off with a portion of velvety sticky toffee pudding and vanilla ice cream. A timeless dessert combination that warmed me up (almost) enough to head happily back out into the dark and cold evening. 

When it comes to eating out in the next few weeks and months,  Ate O’Clock is ideally located, enchantingly decorated, and is clearly a local favourite— my only advice is to make sure it’s on your list for this winter. 

To browse the menu and book your table visit www.ateoclock.co.uk.

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