York restaurant review: Afternoon Sea at Pearly Cow

When it comes to a treat on a Saturday lunchtime or afternoon, us York residents are all more than used to enjoying a traditional Afternoon tea, the scones, finger sandwiches and cakes never go out of style and have been a part of our habits for over a century. That being said, even the pastimes we love the most shouldn’t be immune from innovations and refreshing adaptations. Pearly Cow in Bootham have done exactly that. This year they’ve been taking York’s food scene by storm with their Afternoon Sea, a savoury tiered seafood spectacular. It celebrates local food in a new and exciting manner — by showcasing the best seafood produce from Yorkshire’s legendary 90 miles of coastline, alongside some crab imports from Scotland. It’s the ideal setting for those of us without the sweet tooth necessary to enjoy a full offering of cake and scones. 

Even though Pearly Cow only opened earlier this year, it already feels part of the furniture in this historic city. A large part of that success is due to the idyllic restaurant building itself — they’ve nestled in a Grade II listed regency townhouse that is (to our shock!) only a ten minute walk from the Minster.  

Upon arrival we were greeted with a warm and friendly welcome from their wonderful staff. As we’re led through to our cosy corner table we couldn’t help but be taken aback by the masterfully decorated room. It’s busy but tranquil, light and airy, with high ceilings and art-covered walls — their elegant cabinetry and pearl-themed lighting perfectly put us in the mood for a stylish afternoon.  

As we opted for the Bottomless Afternoon Sea, in no time at all the waiter comes over to fill our glasses with a delicious chilled Quatre Vin rosé, whilst also offering us some still or sparkling water. The attentiveness of the staff genuinely changed our understanding of a bottomless meal. Rather than bringing over more drinks upon our request, they never let our glasses run dry — topping them up before you had time to finish your first glass. 

The first course soon arrives; a prawn cocktail with a cucumber and tomato salsa and six large oysters to share, served on ice in a giant clam shell with red wine pickled shallots. We also accepted the optional extra of tabasco sauce to accompany (of which you only need a little). The combination of the lemon juice, pickled shallots and tabasco was nothing short of delicious. 

Then onto the main event, presented on a three-tier stand, we were served mussels, crab and avocado on charred sourdough, scallops baked with gruyere cheese and smoked salmon scones with horseradish creme fraiche. My favourite however, had to be the mussels. These were the largest and freshest mussels I’ve ever tasted and the mariniere sauce was mouthwateringly luscious. Definitely a game changer! Throughout the seafood feast the staff continued to refill our rosé which accompanied the flavours brilliantly.

We very much enjoyed our relaxing and chic afternoon in the city of York, it wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that this Afternoon Sea blew us out of the water! We will definitely be returning as soon as we can. Pearly Cow is part of No.1 by GuestHouse, York and so on the same site there’s also a spa, next time we might make a full day of it and upgrade to a spa treatment!

To find out more information about the Afternoon Sea menu head to www.pearlycow.co.uk/pearly-cow-york/ or call them up on 01904 946299 to book your seat.

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